Tuesday, January 8, 2008

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1920s Clothing

for both sexes underwent a revolution in the 1920s. Styles were produced that had never been seen before, and which frequently shocked the older generation. New clothes were lighter, brighter and far less cumbersome than ever before. Hair styles also changed dramatically and, combined with the new clothes, gave the Twenties a distinctive look.


Women's clothes

Before the war, women had worn elaborate, full length dresses with layers of restrictive undergarments. In the 1920s, body crippling corsets were abandoned, hemlines rose and rose, and the boyish figure became all the rage. Dresses, or frocks as they were called, were low waisted and by 1926 knee length. They were often embroidered or decorated with beads and tassels. To complement the newly revealed legs, stockings became a daring flesh colour instead of the traditional black. Favourite accessories were dangling earrings and long necklaces. Fashionable colours mentioned in an advertisement for frocks and suits included "Roseda, Orchid, Bracken, Amethyst and Navy".


The modern young woman, or "flapper" as she was sometimes called, was often bold enough to wear powder, rouge and pale blue eye shadow in the evening, and may even have plucked her eyebrows. Some women were beginning to smoke, not only at home but in public, and this shocked many people.

Children's clothes

For the first time, children's clothes were designed with children in mind. Before the war, children had been dressed in similar styles to their parents. Again, these clothes were very restrictive and multi layered and not much fun for playing in. Now girls wore simple cotton frocks, cardigans and canvas shoes in the summer, and serge skirts and hand knitted jerseys in the winter. When it was cold, girls also wore liberty bodices, which were like long vests with suspenders attached, to keep up woollen stockings. Boys also had comfortable clothes. Knee length trousers were worn in winter and summer. When it was cold, knee length, turned over socks and woollen jerseys were worn, whilst in the summer short sleeved shirts and Fair Isle slipovers were popular. Boys generally wore short trousers, kept up with braces, until they were 16 or 16. Victorian lace up boots were replaced with lace up shoes for the winter and canvas shoes or sandals for summer.

Babies' clothes were made to be more comfortable and practical, too. No longer were babies dressed up in yards of lacy, white gown. By the end of the period romper suits, matinee jackets and short dresses were popular.

Men's clothing

Men's fashions also underwent a huge transformation in the Twenties. Previously most men had worn formal three piece suits. Now they were allowed far more casual styles as "cheerio" and "jazzy" fashions became acceptable. Flannel trousers, tweed jackets and brightly coloured Fair Isle slipovers were very popular, as were Plus Fours (baggy knicker bockers) and Oxford Bags (trousers with very wide legs). In the summer, blazers and light coloured trousers were comple mented with a panama hat or a boater. By the late 1920s, pipe smoking and after shave were desirable male accessories.

Hairstyles and hats

Before the war, women had been admired for the length of their hair. In the 1920s, almost every female, whether she was young or old, seemed to cut her hair another sign of liberation and a completion of the Boyish Look. Short hair was known as a "bob". Variations included the "shingle", where the hair was cut shorter at the back, and the Eton Crop, where the hair was given a virtual short back and sides. Marcel Waves (perms) could curl hair, but for those who could not afford that, rags left in the hair overnight were the only alternative.

Men's hairstyles also changed and the short back and sides became popular. (Previously men, too, had worn their hair longer.) Hats were worn by everyone, including children. Women and girls wore head hugging "Cloche" hats, often pulled way down over the ears and eyes. Boys wore caps, while men could choose from trilbys, Homburgs, Derbys, bowlers, panamas and boaters, to name a few.

Extract from “Growing up in The 1920s”, written by Amanda Clark. London: B.T.Batsford Ltd, 1986.




Dating the Twenties Hemline

From 1913 the hemline had begun to show a little ankle.

Between 1916 and 1929 hemlines rose steadily, faltered then rose again.

In 1918 skirt lengths were just below calf length.

Calf length loose dresses circa 1918 compared with those of 1920 where the waist has shown a definite drop, but the length remains steady around the calf area.

In 1919 skirt lengths were calf length.

Between 1920 and 1924 skirts remained calf length with fluctuations of an inch or two according to garment style. Skirts were actually still rather long, but were designed to confuse.

The Elusive Hemline of the 1920s.

Gradually by degrees the skirt lengths on dresses gave the illusion of being first long and then shorter with dipping, scalloped and handkerchief hemlines in floating fabrics. It was only in 1925 that skirts rose 14 to 16 inches (45 to 50 cm) from the ground making the shorter hemline we associate with the era.



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